Day 1 :
The longest
international trip begins with a flight to Singapore with a 3 hrs layover
and then a next one to Ho Chi Minh or Tân Sơn Nhất
International airport.Smooth touch down at 11 AM and checked in Liberty Green
View Hotel .We ( Me & Bharath ) were hungry and decided to have an early
lunch ! And guess what , heavy rains.Had to gulp a pizza and fried rice just
below the hotel and purchased a sim card for 4 dollars which was a must.Soon we
realized that using local currency (Vietnamese dong) was the best and
easiest way to deal in local shops.Now , the rest of the day was free for us to
shop and roam around.
 |
| Asian food place right in front of our room |
 |
| First day spirit |
So we set out to an eatery place which was very huge right
in front of the hotel.It was still pouring but we did not want rain to demotivate
our spirit, I tried the very famous Vietnamese Poh noodles and then we
just strolled around the complex.It was a messy , rainy start .
 |
| The one which i was craving for since years.Vietnamese Poh Noodle |
Day 2 :
Early pick
up to Independence Palace , Reunification Palace was the base of
Vietnamese General Ngo Dinh Diem until his death in 1963. It made its name in
global history in 1975. A tank belonging to the North Vietnamese Army crashed
through its main gate, ending the Vietnam War. Today, it's a must-visit for
tourists in Ho Chi Minh City. The palace is like a time capsule frozen
in 1975. You can see two of the original tanks used in the capture of the
palace parked in the grounds. Reunification Palace was the home and workplace
of the French Governor of Cochin-China. It has lush gardens, secret rooms,
antique furniture, and a command bunker.
 |
| Reunification Palace |
 |
| Palace Entrance Area |
It's still in use to host important
occasions in Ho Chi Minh, including APEC summits.The Reunification Palace has
five levels. The basement features tunnels, a war room and telecommunications
centre. The war command room has original maps on its walls. Period
telecommunications equipment are also on display. Its adjoining basement rooms
display war propaganda materials.
 |
| Palace interiors |
 |
| Palace interiors |
 |
| Palace interiors |
On the third floor, there's a card playing
room while the fourth houses a casino. Reunification Palace's rooftop terrace
is fitted with a heliport.
 |
| Palace interiors |
 |
| Palace interiors |
It was
almost an hour and we left to the Central post office,.The Central Post Office
in Ho Chi Minh was constructed between 1886 and 1891 and once inside, the
looping arches, intricately designed marble floors and antiquated telephone
boxes all serve as a reminder of the importance the post office played in days
before email and mobile phones. Although the architecture is distinctly French,
the large portrait of Ho Chi Minh hanging high above everyone at the far end of
the building reminds everyone we are definitely in Vietnam. Painted onto walls
overhead are two maps of the region; one of them showing the telegraph lines
that crisscross Vietnam and Cambodia and the other displaying a map of the
Saigon region in 1892.
 |
| Central Post office |
 |
| In front of the post office entrance |
 |
| That's Ho Chi Minh photo in the post office |
Although
the experience is a fascinating glimpse into history, the fact that this is
still a functioning post office makes the experience even sweeter, and we
encourage everyone to send a letter or postcard from here – it’s a piece of
living history where even the old fashioned glue pots are still in use for
sticking stamps to letters. There are two wings branching out from the main
office, selling souvenirs, postcards and lacquerware but the prices are
inflated and the same products can probably be found elsewhere for a better
price.
On streets lined with restaurants, banks and government buildings,
in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, you don’t expect to come across an American
Huey helicopter parked next to an M48 Patton tank. They look like things you’ve
seen in documentaries, more suited to an army base than a busy urban
neighborhood. Here, at the War Remnants Museum, 500,000 visitors a year come to
see how war has shaped modern Vietnam.
 |
| War Museum Entrance |
 |
| War Museum Entrance |
The first thing you’ll notice are the
large pieces of authentic military hardware outside the main building. As the
northern troops pushed south, toward the end of the war, the ARVN — the
southern army — fled in droves, leaving behind billions of dollars of American
equipment in their wake. With that new hardware, as well as what the Americans
jettisoned when Saigon finally fell, the government in Hanoi had plenty of
display pieces to choose from.The photos inside, prominently displayed, are
simply horrific.
 |
| In the Museum |
There are bodies blown to pieces, families grieving over the
corpses of children, and every kind of gruesome injury. If you’re squeamish,
then keep your eye on the pieces of equipment in the displays, because the
photos are very real. But shocking sights like these are necessary,
if only to remind us why peace is so important.It was almost 12.30 PM and
sipping coffee in Vietnam is not a plan ! There was a small coffee shop and
then what ! Coffee time.Later our guide took us to a souvenir shop where
coffee making was demonstrated with those lovely coffee filter.Lunch wasn't
good at all ! We are posing happy but the food was pathetic in a so called
"good restaurant" !
It was a 2 hr journey to Chu Chi tunnel
along with few other travelers. On the way we purchased a tiny wall frame
crafted with egg shell made by the war victims.
 |
| Place where egg shell art is done and sold |
 |
| Egg shell art ! |
Chu chi tunnel area was
really huge.We were inside One among many huts which displayed Vietnamese war
videos and displaying the villagers how they helped themselves survive !
It was breath taking as i never heard such war stories.Later we were taken to a
tunnel of 100 mts length .We had to literally get down to our knees and
bend our heads as the height of the tunnel was just 2-3 feet ! I felt a little
uneasy and claustrophobic but thanks to Bharath for being there with every
step.
 |
| One of the few ways how they trapped enemies |
 |
| One more way |
 |
| One of the tunnel |
 |
| Yes, so tiny entrance |
Realized how tough it might have been for the locals to protect
themselves underneath the tunnels for years. We got to taste some fresh
yam and local tea as well.Tried out Indian roti and curry for dinner and
decided to see the night market.It was good.I wasn't feeling well , may be
fever and cold ! Alas.Had to buy medicine and move around the night market .It
was a good foot massage with shopping and back to rest.
Day 3 :
Bye Bye
Saigon and hi to Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam.11.30 AM Viet jet flight was all
set and landed at 1.30 PM.Our first international local flight it was.We
were escorted to La Suite Deluxe hotel . It was a free day.A small Indian
restaurant was that we found out immediately and had delicious rotis,and guess
what ! Water is so costly in Vietnam.Even the hotels do not provide in good
quantity.Quality is horrible too.Can't help.But Indian currency has a very good
value.So cheers.
 |
| Cute cafe. |
There were hundreds of cafes all around and yes we tried and
purchased coffee powder too !Good night day 3.
Day 4 :
Early
morning pick up to Halong bay and 3 hrs ride with fellow travelers. We embarked
at Ha Long wharf.Boarded beautiful, cute , tiny White Dolphin Cruise all along
Bai Tu long bay.1000s of small rock formations and islands.It was an amazing
view and the ride of life ! Lunch was accompanied by detailed classes about the
rules and itinerary for the day followed by cooking class.
 |
| Cruise top |
 |
| Behind us is the cave entrance |
It was fun to
meet new fellow travelers from Japan,Europe & India as well.This
trip without my knowledge,somehow taught me not to give up on the
enjoyment part though i wasn't keeping well.In fact, i had high fever and was
unable to taste the delicacies. But, there was a small trip to Thien Canh Son
Cave to keep my mood on.
The entrance
to the cave is small and unassuming, looking at it from the outside lends no
hand in picturing what is held within. You’ll need to duck down slightly so as
not to hit your head on the low entrance, and then follow the downward sloping
path into the first cavern. Thien Canh Son Cave is comprised of three caverns
in total, each one strewn with stalactites and stalagmites.
 |
| cave entrance |
 |
| Cave entrance from inside |
There’s plenty to
see inside thanks to the natural light accompanied by a smattering of
artificial lights. After exploring the inner caverns, we stepped back out
into daylight and enjoyed the view of Bai Tu Long Bay from our vantage point,
it’s a nice place to snap a few photos.Wish we could spend more time there but
there was another small surprise, yes kayaking ! A big one hour rowing
around a rocky island and i was tired.Hats off to Bharath's strength and we
made some strategies and got back to our cruise.After dinner , we also tried
fishing but bad luck, couldn't catch any or may be those fishes
went to bed early
! haha .This was one of the most memorable day of our trip as
it was a different experience all together.
Day 5 :
Early
morning breakfast calls and off to Vung Vieng floating village with
our conical hats on in a small boat.
 |
| Off to floating market |
 |
| On the way to floating market |
 |
| Beautiful view near the floating market |
Under passing a rocky arch entrance
was the best part of the day and what a view.A true visual treat.Vung
Vieng fishing village was first established in the 19th Century as a mooring
for the local fisherman, and a place where they could exchange goods. Up until
a few years ago, there were somewhere in the realm of 50 families who resided
in the floating village of Vung Vieng, totaling just shy of 300 residents
(about 100 of which were children).
 |
| Floating market |
These
families have dwelled here for many generations, living a modest life, relying
solely on the rich marine resources of the bay. In recent times, their income
was also supplemented by the steadily growing tourism industry, although the
bulk of earnings still came from the fishing industry.Those who inhabited Vung
Vieng fishing village were not hardened from the flow of strangers who came to
wander through; in reality, these people remained steadfastly kind and
hospitable. As for the tourists who come to Vung Vieng fishing village now,
they are usually those seeking an ‘authentic’ experience, a glimpse into local
life and an insight into the rich traditional cultures of the indigenous
people.Although the village is no longer the home it once was, the locals still
command a strong hold on their culture and way of life, and so have set up displays
of this- such as workshops where you can learn to weave your own fishing nets
and catch and prepare fish.Vung Vieng fishing village was first established in
the 19th Century as a mooring for the local fisherman, and a place where they
could exchange goods. Up until a few years ago, there were somewhere in the
realm of 50 families who resided in the floating village of Vung Vieng,
totaling just shy of 300 residents (about 100 of which were children).
These
families have dwelled here for many generations, living a modest life, relying
solely on the rich marine resources of the bay. In recent times, their income
was also supplemented by the steadily growing tourism industry, although the
bulk of earnings still came from the fishing industry.
People went
on with their lives clearly used to the daily tourist visits and for the most
part ignored our wide staring eyes. Some did their washing, others were
cleaning vegetables and cooking and the more well to do families were even
watching tv. Most of the homes however did not have generators and only the
largest few appeared to have those. I was also surprised to see a number of
homes having pet dogs who all obviously have grown used to life on rafts. It
was all strikingly amazing to me how people live in such a different existence
several miles away from land and with some who probably haven't been to the
mainland in months. Was informed that they make weekly visits to Ha Long to
sell their catch and to buy supplies from the mainland. In exchange for this
lifestyle, they get to live in such a spectacular surrounding with the blue
waters and beautiful cliffs all around, but I do wonder having lived there all
their lives, if they hold the same feelings for their surroundings as visitors
like us who see the bay only for a few days and leave enraptured. Perhaps they
are too busy to think too much about where they live but I am almost certain
that there are folks in the village who probably yearn to leave one day and see
the big bustling cities on the mainland. It is human nature but unfortunately
got no opportunity to talk to anyone really to find out. We were paddled
up close to it for plenty of photo opportunities before turning away to head
back through another channel which wasn't part of the village homes. We got to
get pretty close to the limestone cliff walls on our return journey which ended
at the oyster farm.
Oyster Farm
Pearl Making process
This was the place we were going to separate from our
paddlers and the spot where it is recommended to tip a dollar or two to your
rower.The Oyster farm leads to a final attempt to selling you some more stuff
in the form of pearl jewelry. This at least was of a much better quality
compared to the earlier store and some pieces were expensive. It was obvious
this wasn't being run by the villagers but they probably share in the revenue,
I am not sure what the arrangement is. After a few minutes here, we returned
back to the White Dolphin for a lunch meal before leaving beautiful Ha Long
bay.Returned back to Hanoi to the same hotel and rest of the day was free for
shopping.
Day 6 :
The Hanoi
City tour day.We were taken to Temple of Literature-The Temple of Literature is
often cited as one of Hanoi’s most picturesque tourist
attractions. Originally built as a university in 1070 dedicated to
Confucius, scholars and sages, the building is extremely well preserved and is
a superb example of traditional-style Vietnamese architecture. This ancient
site offers a lake of literature, the Well of Heavenly Clarity, turtle steles,
pavilions, courtyards and passageways that were once used by royalty. Visiting
the Temple of Literature you will discover historic buildings from the Ly and
Tran dynasties in a revered place that has seen thousands of doctors’ graduate
in what has now become a memorial to education and literature. Originally the
university only accepted aristocrats, the elite and royal family members as
students before eventually opening its doors to brighter ‘commoners’.
Successful graduates had their names engraved on a stone stele which can be
found on top of the stone turtles.
Temple of literature complex
Temple of
literature complex encompasses five walled courtyards connected by
gateways. The number of courtyards, five, is the symbolic number of five
basic elements forming the world:
Five basic
elements: Metal – Wood – Fire – Water – The earth.
Phoenix
and dragon symbols are used to represent the Empress and Emperor:
A
phoenix represents beauty – A dragon represents power.
Headed
towards Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Ba Dinh Square which is one of the
most visited attractions in Hanoi. It is the final resting place of Ho Chi
Minh, the most iconic and popular leader of Vietnam, known to his people as
‘Uncle Ho’. His body is preserved here in a glass case at the Ho Chi Minh
Mausoleum in central Hanoi .Security is tight and visitors should dress
with respect (no shorts, sleeveless shirts and miniskirts) and everyone has to
deposit their bags and cameras before getting in. Visitors are not allowed to
stop and hold the constant queue up as the place is constantly busy.
Ba Dinh Square
Ba Dinh Square
Uncle Ho’s
remains are sent yearly to Russia for maintenance therefore the mausoleum is
closed usually from October onwards. It’s best to recheck with your hotel tour
desk before visiting. Admission is free but donations are accepted. We did not get
it as we thought it would kill the rest of the time.
The next pit
stop was Presidential Palace Hanoi, constructed in 1900 by French
architect Auguste Henri Vildieu, was intended to be Ho Chi Minh’s official
residence but the Vietnamese leader had opted for a traditional Vietnamese
stilt-house instead. The three-storey, mustard yellow building features 30
rooms built in colonial French architectural style, an orchard, carp pond, and
a 91-metre long boulevard surrounded by lush gardens.Again it was photo sessions
just outside the palace as obviously entry was restricted .
From there we moved
to The One Pillar Pagoda which is said to represent a lotus flower
growing up out of the water. Built between the years of 1028 and 1054 during
the reign of Emperor Ly Thai Tong of the Ly Dynasty, the One Pillar Pagoda is
one of Vietnam’s most iconic temples.Legend claims that The One Pillar Pagoda
was built following a dream by the fatherless emperor in which the enlightened
being Avalokiteshvara gave him a baby son resting on a lotus flower.Another
point of interest is a bo tree that grows behind the pagoda which legend state
is an offshoot of the one under which Buddha became enlightened - the tree was
given as a gift from India in 1958. Before you leave the pagoda also take time
to visit the Dien Huu Pagoda which is located close by in a courtyard full of
exquisite bonsai trees.
It was time
to say bye to Vietnam and fly to Cambodia with a 5 hrs stroll in the airport to
catch our next flight ! And guess what , rains ! Yes, Cambodia too welcomed us
with heavy rains.Checked in Hotel Dinata and somehow managed to find an Indian
restaurant to fill up our tummy for the night.Good night with a little worry in
my mind about the next day city tour.
Day 7:
Luckily sun
shines early morning and we woke up with a smile ! So happy we were thinking
about the places that we would visit . 1 hr drive and a pit stop to collect our
tickets to Ankor complex and then the first destination was Bayon
temple.Situated just to the north of Angkor Wat itself, it was once at the
centre of the ancient city of Angkor Thom. It is sometimes called Jayavarman's
Temple, in honour of the Khmer king who ordered its construction. It is best
known for its many towers with gently smiling faces on each side. There are
some 50 towers around the ruined temple, with over 200 faces showing varying
degrees of erosion and wear. Each face is 4 metres high and is facing one of
the cardinal directions of the compass. They all have the same serene smile,
with eyes closed, representing the all-knowing state of inner peace, and
perhaps even a state of Nirvana.
When it
comes to the many faces, there is some debate over who they actually represent.
Some scholars suggest that they are of King Jayavarman VII while other theories
that they are the face of a Bodhisattva (Buddhism's compassionate and
enlightened being), or a combination of Buddha and Jayavarman. The Bayon Temple
was constructed as Jayavarman VII's state-temple, and it represents the height
of his massive building programme.40 mintutes of this beauty was our first
experience in Cambodia and were thrilled to take on with the next destination
which was Baphuon temple.
Baphuon Temple
Baphuon Temple complex
Baphuon Temple
Baphuon Temple
Baphuon Temple
The Baphuon
Temple is one of the quieter of the main Angkor ruins, despite being almost
right next to the Bayon Temple, with the Terrace of the Elephants nearby. With
large, open grounds, the temple is almost palatial, creating a peaceful place
to enjoy the open air and a clearer view of the impressive architecture, after
the cramped corridors of Bayon Temple.Contemporary sources say that a striking
8-metre- tall tower once stood on top of the temple, probably made of wood
gilded with bronze. This is thought to have been demolished in the late-15th
century, when the temple was converted from being dedicated to the Hindu God
Shiva to Buddha. A reclining Buddha statue – 9 metres tall and 70 metres long –
was added to the second tier on the west-facing side. Sadly, even by this time,
it is thought that much of the temple’s structure had already collapsed, due to
the fact that it was hastily built on land filled with sand.The three-tiered
temple mountain of the Baphuon Temple was the state temple of King
Udayadityavarman II. Its pyramid shape represents the mythical Hindu Mount Meru
and marks the centre of the city that was here before Angkor Thom. It was
too hot but the temple complex took away our tiredness as we could rest under
the shelters and passages inside.
Time to
check out the largest temple in the world-Angkor Wat ! Our guide opted rear
entrance as there would be huge rush from the main entrance.
Angkor Wat entrance from the back
Temple complex
Art and architecture everywhere on the wall displaying history.
The
general appearance of the wonder of the temple is beautiful and romantic as
well as impressive and grand it must be seen to be understood and appreciated.
One can never look upon the ensemble of the vat without a thrill, a pause, a
feeling of being caught up onto the heavens. Perhaps it is the most impressive
sight in the world of edifices.
To describe
the entire architecture of this wonder needs another blog post ! Yes !
carvings,pillars , stairs,idols,sculptures, passages....extravaganza it was
! Angkor Wat, built during the early years of the 12th century by
Suryavaram II, honors the Hindu god Vishnu and is a symbolic representation of
Hindu cosmology. Consisting of an enormous temple symbolizing the mythic Mt.
Meru, its five inter-nested rectangular walls and moats represent chains of
mountains and the cosmic ocean. The short dimensions of the vast compound are
precisely aligned along a north-south axis, while the east-west axis has been
deliberately diverted 0.75 degrees south of east and north of west, seemingly
in order to give observers a three day anticipation of the spring
equinox.Angkor Wat is also famous for having more than 3000
beguiling apsaras(heavenly nymphs) carved into its walls. Each of them is
unique, and there are 37 different hairstyles for budding stylists to check
out.
Angkor Wat
is surrounded by a 190m-wide moat, which forms a giant rectangle measuring
1.5km by 1.3km. From the west, a sandstone causeway crosses the moat.
Outer wall:
The
rectangular outer wall, which measures 1025m by 800m, has a gate on each side,
but the main entrance, a 235m-wide porch richly decorated with carvings and
sculptures, is on the western side. There is a statue of Vishnu, 3.25m in
height and hewn from a single block of sandstone, located in the right-hand
tower. Vishnu’s eight arms hold a mace, a spear, a disc, a conch and other
items. You may also see locks of hair lying about. These are offerings both
from young people preparing to get married and from pilgrims giving thanks for
their good fortune.
Avenue:
The avenue
is 475m long and 9.5m wide and lined with nagabalustrades, leading from
the main entrance to the central temple, passing between two graceful libraries
and then two pools, the northern one a popular spot from which to watch the sun
rise.
Central
complex:
The central
temple complex consists of three storeys, each made of laterite, which enclose
a square surrounded by intricately interlinked galleries. The Gallery of a
Thousand Buddhas (Preah Poan) used to house hundreds of Buddha images before
the war, but many of these were removed or stolen, leaving just the handful we
see today.
Towers:
The corners
of the second and third storeys are marked by towers, each topped with symbolic
lotus-bud towers. Rising 31m above the third level and 55m above the ground is
the central tower, which gives the whole grand ensemble its sublime unity.
Upper level:
The stairs
to the upper level are immensely steep, because reaching the kingdom of the
gods was no easy task. Also known as Bakan Sanctuary, the upper level of Angkor
Wat is open to a limited number per day with a queuing system.
History of
Angkor Wat The temple ruins are what remains of the ancient Khmer Empire. The
empire encompassed much of Southeast Asia from the 9th to the 13th century. It
dominated the area of present day Cambodia, as well as a lot of Thailand,
southern Vietnam and Laos. At its zenith, more than a million people lived in
the capital city at Angkor. King Suryavarman II built Angkor Wat in the
early 12th century, at the height of the Khmer Empire’s power. Scholars
disagree on whether it was meant as a state temple or a funerary one. The name
translates as "City Temple" and it reportedly took some 50,000
artisans, workers and slaves to complete. It is still the world's largest
religious building, covering 162.6 hectares. It was first dedicated to the
Hindu god Vishnu, but became a Buddhist temple in the 14th century. Getting To
Angkor Wat There are two main ways visitors get to Angkor Wat and the
surrounding temples. One way is on an organised tour and the other
way is a do-it-yourself tour. Depending on the size of the group, transport can
be by bus, minivan or tuk-tuk. For the really independent types, you can visit
the temples on a motorbike. Cycling to and around the temples has become
increasingly popular. Be sure to carry plenty of water, though. It may not look
like it on the map, but the temples are a bit too far apart to comfortably
visit them on foot. One of Angkor Wat’s major attractions are the many
intricate and well preserved bas reliefs with depictions of scenes from the
epics Ramayana and Mahabharata, as well as many hundreds of statues of
female devatas, a Hindu deity.
From the main entrance
In front of the world's largest Vishnu Idol
The battle
of Lanka, a story from the epic Ramayana, where Rama fights Ravana who
abducted his wife Sita.
The battle
of Kurukshetra from the epic Mahabharata, between the Kauravas and the
Pandavas, depicting soldiers and commanders on elephants or riding chariots.
A 90 meter
panel of the Royal Procession. Two sections depict King Suryavarman II and a
procession of court ladies, another section shows a procession of soldiers on
foot or on horses and elephants and a parade of Brahmin priests.
The Heavens
and Hells and the Judgement of Sinners by Yama, the Hindu God of Death.
Depictions of the 37 heavens with palaces with servants and the 32 hells and
the punishments and tortures received there, each one for a specific sin
committed.
The churning
of the ocean of milk, a 50 meter long panel. This storey from the Mahabharata
tells how an elixir of immortality over which the Gods and the demons fight is
produced by churning the ocean with Mount Meru used as the churning rod.
Vishnu and
his incarnation Krishna.
The victory
of Vishnu over the asuras.
The
abduction of Shiva by Ravana.
Other scenes
from the Ramayana
Within the
third enclosure, right after passing the main entrance on the West end are galleries
that delimit four courtyards. Its walls are decorated with devatas, apsaras and
rishis, while the pediments contain carvings of Vishnu and Krishna, one of
Vishnu’s incarnations. The galleries also contain a number of Buddha images,
placed there after Angkor Wat was converted into a Buddhist temple.
Highlights
and Features of Angkor Wat
The temple
is about 1 km square and consists of three levels. The exterior wall
surrounding Angkor Wat measures 1,300 metres x 1,500 metres. Bas-reliefs and
carvings cover almost every wall of the temple. Those on the exterior walls of
the lower level are especially remarkable. There are carvings of almost 2,000
Apsaras (celestial dancers). These inspired the revival of the Apsaras Dance in
Cambodian culture. Other carvings show scenes of wars, everyday life and
Hindu legends. The south wall shows scenes of heaven and hell. Depictions of
the Hindu ‘Churning of the Ocean Milk’ are on the east wall. The main tower on
the third level contains four Buddha statues. Each statue faces a different
point on the compass. Paying respect to these statues is said to bring
good luck. The stone structures seen today are only part of what used to exist
at Angkor. There was also an enormous city of wooden houses, markets, shops,
palaces and public buildings. Angkor was abandoned after being sacked by Siam
(now Thailand) in 1431. The French government established the Angkor
Conservancy in 1908. They were first to restore the temples of Angkor Wat,
Bayon and Ta Prohm.
Ta Prohm Temple is a very
popular feature of the typical Angkor tour because it is the only major stop
which has not been fully reclaimed from the jungle. Many of the walls and
structures have been smothered by huge silk-cotton trees and strangler figs, which
grow over, around and even through the ancient stone blocks – in some cases
holding them together and, in others, causing their collapse.
Unlike
any of the other popular Angkor temples, Ta Prohm really gives you the feeling
of discovering something hidden and truly ancient, giving you a real Tomb
Raider or Indiana Jones vibe. In fact, this was used as a location during the
filming of the 2001 movie Tomb Raider and, while other Angkor temples featured
were digitally altered, Ta Prohm’s appearance was largely unchanged.
Ta Prohm Temple was actually a monastery – one of
King Jayavarman VII's first major temple projects from the 12th-13th century,
which was dedicated to his mother. It is estimated that this vast, 600-room
structure and the surrounding area once had a population of over 70,000 people.
The temple is 145 metres by 125 metres and was home to high priests, monks,
assistants, dancers and labourers. It controlled a great wealth of jewels and
gold, as well as an estimated 3,000 nearby villages.
This is an excellent example of the monastic complex-style temples and, thanks
to a wooden walkway built around the compound, it is quite easily accessed and
explored. The dramatic tree roots covering large parts of the buildings make it
a very popular place, particularly with photographers. Naturally, this means
that it can sometimes be as crowded as Angkor Wat or Bayon Temple, so some
patience is necessary if you want the full ‘jungle explorer’ effect. You can
reach Ta Promh Temple about 1 km east of Angkor Thom. The best time to visit is
in the early morning, with usually lesser crowds.
It
was a tiring day but there was pub street to gear up ! Pub street in Cambodia is
the best part to stroll around in the night.So many shops , so many pubs, foot
massages happening every where, songs in each café and what not? Such a happening
street .We were energized back again even after 2 hrs of walk and talk.Good
night.
Day 8 :
Tucked away at the eastern edge of the Angkor Park, the
temple Banteay Samre is 18km distant from Siem Reap town and take half an hour
driving to get there. Built by Suryavarman II, it was named after the Samre, an
ethnic tribe that inhabited the regions at the base of Phnom Kulen and was probably
related to the Khmers. No inscription has been found for it, but the tranquil
temple’s style of architecture is of the classic art of the middle period
similar to Angkor Wat. There are much is left to speculation and
interpretation as Banteay Samre's history is very hard to trace. Its name
(means Citadel of the Samre) is not a distinct reference to the date of
construction and there are no inscription indicating about the temple has been
found.
Banteay Samre
Banteay Samre entrance
Banteay Samre temple complex
However, it is generally consented by historians that it would have been
built around the same time as Angkor Wat. Many of the carvings are in excellent
condition. In its architecture and style the temple bears a very similar
resemblance to both its neighbors, Banteay Srey, and the majestic Angkor Wat
itself. Within Banteay Samre, visitors would enjoy its interior with a paved
moat which when filled with water also gives a mystical and peaceful sensation. Banteay Samre is a bit off the Grand
Circuit, near the southeast corner of the East Baray. Somehow off the beaten
track, Banteay Samre has fewer tourists and never crowded that you can visit
anytime of the day. However, it is especially beautiful in the afternoon when
the sun cast its best light over the temple and on the background of
surrounding rice paddies and local villages.There were no one around probably
because we were early birds.Later visitors started to pour in.
It was a good start and from there moved to Kbal Spean also
known as land of thousand lingas ! It was a small half an hour trek and we reach the spot . The
site stretches out over a length of about 150 meters through the jungle along
the Stung Kbal Spean river, known as the “river of a thousand lingas”.There is
no temple at Kbal Spean. The river bed is covered with hundreds of lingas, while depictions of Hindu deities have
been carved into the rock along and in the river. Most of the lingas and
carvings were made in the 11thcentury during the reign of King
Udayadityavarman II.
To
protect the lingas and sculptings from further decay the river bed has been
fenced off; visitors can view the ancient sculptings from a small distance.
Kbal Spean which translates to “stone bridge head”, is named after the natural
stone bridge under which the river flows for a section. In several sections of
the river hundreds of lingas and several yonis have been carved out of the
sandstone river bed. The linga is the representation of Shiva, while the yoni
is the female counterpart of the linga. The river water was sanctified by
running over the lingas in the river bed. The water then flowed from the hills
of Phnom Kulen to Angkor and the temples.A number of carvings of Hindu deities
have been made in rocks along the river, including several carvings of Vishnu
reclining on Ananta-Shesha, the King of the Nagas and Lakshmi, his consort
massaging his feet. Other carvings show depictions of Brahma, the Hindu God of
creation and Shiva and his wife Uma riding Nandi
the bull.
Kbal Spean-Goddess Lakshmi
Kbal Spean
Shiva lingas everywhere
In
the South section of the Kbal Spean site is a waterfall best seen during the
rainy season. Immediately North of the waterfall is a small pool. Hidden under
the water surface are carvings in the rock of a crocodile and Vishnu reclining
on Ananta-Shesha, as well as carvings of the Hindu Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and
Shiva.
We had to quench our thirst so gulped tender coconut water and
quickly had our lunch on the way.It started to rain and we were almost about to
cancel our next destination but luckily rains gave a way and we travelled
further to Banteay Srei.
“The lady temple”, “the tiny temple”, “the pink temple”; Banteay Srei goes by
many nicknames, an indication of the distinctiveness of this little gem of a
temple, which feels so different to the imposing grandeur of the main Angkorian
complex.
Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei
Originally called Tribhuvanamahesvara,
the name Banteay Srei (or Banteay Srey) is a modern one, meaning “citadel of
the women” or, “citadel of beauty”. People speculate that this is due to its
miniature scale, the pink colour of the limestone, and the elaborate decorative
carvings of many devatas (minor female deities) that grace its walls. The temple faces the east, with a gate at the start
of a causeway which leads to three enclosures. The causeway has the remains of
corridors on either side. The two outer enclosures, parts of which have
collapsed or been removed to museums, both depict scenes from Hindu mythology.
The reddish coloured sandstone, which gives Banteay Srei its nickname of the
“pink” temple, is soft and can be carved like wood. This helps explain the
masses of ornamental decoration all over the building. Virtually every
available surface features intricately portrayed stories and motifs. However it
is the inner enclosure housing the two libraries and the sanctuary which
features the most elaborate carvings. The temple is predominantly dedicated to
Shiva, and so many of the carvings are centered around his figure, although
Vishnu does also feature heavily in the buildings on the south side. The temple
consists of low walls surrounding peaked structures of deep red sandstone. It
is said that the reliefs on this temple are so delicate that they could only
have been carved by the hand of a woman. The well-preserved relief carvings on
the central buildings depict scenes from ancient Hindu tales.
What
a beauty.Small temple though but the carvings was so amazing to see. The entire
temple was fenced to protect.Aaaaah what a day ! full of temple architecture
views and we were full,hahah..So what next / our favorite pub street to check
in some local beer and foot massage and shopping.Yaaay , happy us.
Day 9
:
This
was the last day of our trip and we were actually not in a mood to wrap up to
be honest. Did
you know that Siem Reap contains the largest freshwater lake in all of
Southeast Asia, called the Tonle Sap Lake? It’s one of the richest inland
fishing grounds in the world, home to not only over 200 different species of
fish but also to over one million people. In fact, the majority of these people
actually live directly on the water in houseboats which create pockets of
floating villages throughout this 1,042 sq mile lake.We were just 2 of
us in the boat and off we go to take the boat ride to chong Kneas floating
village. Chong Kneas, is a
floating village at the edge of the Tonle Sap Lake. On the way to the floating
village itself, you’ll see large paddy fields and stilted houses on both sides
of the road. As soon as you enter the village, you’ll see rows of
tourist boats docked closely together.
Tonle Sap Lake
Shops in the lake
The real ones !
You’ll also start smelling that fishy
smell that seems to be present with river villages.One look at the water
and you realize that it’s not even remotely clean. But such is life. People in
the village still use it for washing and bathing. The floating village is
rather small. The boat goes on to Tonle Sap lake, which joins the
river in shrinking and expanding dramatically with the seasons, thereby causing
villagers to move their floating houses to different points. The next tourist
stop is the catfish and alligator farm souvenir shop. Then the boat takes
you back to the shore.We enjoyed the long boat journey to the village,
to know their life style and also did a bit of shopping at the souvenir
center.It was a 2 hr trip in the boat and was so beautiful !
Time to say bye to the wonderful
country and the most amazing trip we had till date.Flew back to bangallore via
Singapore.
